I have just arrived in L.A. after a day of travel that started about 20 hours ago.
I will do my best to make sense.
I visited Shanghai in 1986,before the Tianenmen Square student uprising. It was a big, sleepy town in a Third World culture, reeking of Mao worship and completely lacking a work ethic. I remember going into a store, and the employees were asleep on the floor with the lights out.
Shanghai today is high-rise. Loaded with luxury buildings, luxury shops, luxury restaurants. Unlike Vietnam and Cambodia, the main mode of transportation is auto, not motorbikes. People were getting ready for the New Year, so there was a festive air and many decorations. Most of the high rise buildings are ablaze with moving neon graphics, and the city oozes money, entrepreneurship, dynamism, great wealth. Porsche’s, Mercedes, BMWs, and other luxury cars zip around.
From talking to service people, I learned that the public schools are not free. There is a fee for every child.classes are crowded, 40 or more. Private schools have small classes but they are expensive. Medical care is not free. There is no social security. Parents put all their hopes and savings into their child or children’s education. There is enormous pressure to do well, because education is the determinant of one’s life chances.
We had a very smart, well-spoken tour guide. She commutes nearly two hours a day each way to work. She can’t afford to live in the city. She worked at MacDonald’s but was paid only $.50 an hour. Being a guide is good and pays well.
She was knowledgeable about ancient Chinese history. She loves her country and is very proud of it. I asked what she learned about the Cultural Revolution, and she said it was at most a paragraph in a textbook. There was no discussion in school but she had learned from other sources. She knew about the uprising in Tianenmen Square and recalled seeing famous photograph of the young man in front of the line of tanks but she had not learned about these events in school. She could not explain why sites like Twitter, Google, and Facebook are banned but said there are ways to bypass the bans.
We stayed in a very beautiful high-tech hotel on The Bund, a major thoroughfare. Every afternoon, they served tea in a large Art Deco room that seated about 200 people, and a string quartet played western classical music. At night, during cocktails and dinner, there was a six-piece band and a singer. She sang American songs—Broadway tunes, Jerome Kern, Cole Porter, Billy Joel, Karen Carpenter. She was really good. At the end of each song, we four Americans applauded but no one else did. Almost everyone else was on their cellphone, reading and texting and completely oblivious to the music. I found it rude and alienating.
One morning at breakfast, we saw a family of three—Father, mother, child about 6, all on their own cells. No conversation.
I thought about Marc Tucker’s book, “Surpassing Shanghai.” I thought, I don’t want to surpass Shanghai. I hope we are never like Shanghai. The city is successful, if success is measured by test scores and dollars (but I don’t think the two have any relationship.) The City is booming because an authoritarian government invested in infrastructure and lured business and made profit its goal.
I don’t have any answers. But it was unsettling to think that the economic giant of the 21st century thinks it can and should control communications and thought.

“From talking to service people, I learned that the public schools are not free. There is a fee for every child.classes are crowded, 40 or more. Private schools have small classes but they are expensive. Medical care is not free. There is no social security. Parents put all their hopes and savings into their child or children’s education. There is enormous pressure to do well, because education is the determinant of one’s life chances.”
Perhaps someday we’ll achieve the dream of making this the reality in the U.S.
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Fear not: it won’t be long before Free Market Fundamentalism and Free Market Stalinism (neither of which are free in any meaningful sense) merge…
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Thank you for the very telling observations and for asking such hard questions.
Shanghai is also booming because wealthy people/ families, who had pulled out after the liberation, and gone (mostly) to places like Hong Kong, have returned–for better and for worse.
Undoubtedly, the enormous changes present a mixed picture. When I was in Shanghai in 1974, for example, the area across the river from the Bund was an industrial slum. Now it presents an amazing set of I guess one would say “futuristic” buildings. It’s hard to calculate the cost to Chinese people of such development, of the new museums, rail systems, and the like. Just as it would be hard to calculate the costs (and to whom) of similar development in late 19th-century US. Or late 20th century development. Who is advantaged and who is shoved down?
Likewise, teaching Chinese university students presents a mixed picture. Many are unused to discussion, much less more “radical” forms of pedagogy. No question, though, as you write, that formal education seems to be a critical “determinant of one’s life chances.” Or is it, as generally in the USA, an indication of a family’s economic status? No easy answers about them–or us.
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That industrial slum across the river from the Bund is now Shanghai’s Wall Street. Gleaming high rise buildings, the financial sector.
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I too am very disconcerted by the lack of freedoms in China. Those of us who grew up in the Cold War are prejudiced –in a good way, I think –against dictatorship. I wonder if the rising generations of Americans are.
Separate point: what happened to all the freedom-defending Republican Cold Warriors? Why aren’t they pressuring China and Russia to be freer? Apparently the only freedom they really cared about was the freedom to make money. Freedom of speech? Pfft.
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There is a metaphor in here about our current situation in the U.S. Our Dear Leader and his strongest supporters want to believe “his” “strong” economy (never mind trends and actual facts) is evidence of his “effectiveness” and “leadership.” As they do this, they ignore almost every issue under the sun, especially political and civil rights, i.e., anything that is not tied to their perception of economic success. What you saw in Shanghai is the world for which they strive. It would be interesting to find out what they would think if they achieved that goal. Odd, isn’t it? They claim to want to revere the Founding Fathers, but judged objectively, what they really want without realizing it is a post-Mao world.
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Thanks for the report and commentary. To me it makes total sense.
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The reason U.S. 1% elitists are trying to get us into a race to the bottom against China is simple, and laid out in the above description of China. There is no safety net. They have no rights.
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Tiger Moms, my foot.
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I have friends that work in China, expats, and citizens, a few in Shanghai, and they all tell me they can bypass the central government’s censorship easily through proxy servers.
Then there is the fact that more than 100 million Chinese go on tours to other countries annually and many bring back books, CDs, and DVDs that are banned in China. There’s also an active underground consumer market there to buy this stuff.
My former wife, Anchee Min, actually bought copies of her own books printed in Mandarin in that underground thriving marketplace. She read them to see if anything had been changed but found they were very accurate and it was a good translation.
Those books of hers were pirated and she didn’t make any money from those sales but those banned books were available.
On one trip, we were in a bookstore and out of curiosity I went to the foreign book section and found books that were banned from being published in Mandarine in China but could be found in the foreign section printed in English and/or other languages.
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Public school is not free. True and false. In China and shanghai, No Tuition for Compulsory education that includes 9 years of elementary and middle schooling.
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High school is not free.
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Sounds like something out of Huxley or Orwell.
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“… it was unsettling to think that the economic giant of the 21st century thinks it can and should control communications and thought.”
China went through much chaos in the 20th century which is why there is so much emphasis on “social harmony.”
One wonders if the government relaxed their control whether one might see a house of cards collapse.
On the other hand, we are not serving as a shining example of freedom and democracy lately either, and, regarding the usual topic of billionaires, there are some who are trying to blend the two systems: http://berggruen.org.
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