A couple of years ago, I read an article in The New Yorker about the federal government’s efforts to shut down health-food cooperatives that sell raw milk.

The story focused on California, where SWAT teams descended on sellers of raw milk and locked them up.

What is “raw milk,” I wondered.

It is milk as it comes from the cow, not pasteurized, not homogenized.

Sounded frightening. I remember in health class in junior high school learning about Louis Pasteur and how important it was to get all those nasty biological agents out of milk so it would be safe for human consumption.

But then something funny happened.

I spend half my time in a rural area of Long Island (yes, they still exist), and week after week I pass a farm with an unpronounceable Welsh name (Ty Llwyd) on route 48. I always saw the sign that said “eggs” and “potatoes,” but I recently saw a sign that said “Raw milk, legal.”

A few weeks ago, my curiosity piqued by the article in The New Yorker about the black helicopters in California, I stopped and bought a big glass bottle of raw milk. The farmer said to be sure to shake it, so the cream blended in.

When I got the milk home, I shook it up and had a glass. Unpasteurized, unhomogenized. It was amazing. It was delicious. It was unlike any milk I ever tasted before, although I did remember unhomogenized milk with the cream on the top, delivered to our home in the 1940s.

On my second visit, I took my grandson to visit the farmer’s cows and chickens, and they looked content. None was locked in a packed cage. Don’t get me started about the way chickens are raised on factory farms; it is inhumane. Years ago, I visited Delmarva, the area where Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia intersect, and was upset to see the tall chicken coops, where the lights are on 24/7, and the chickens never set foot on the ground.

Our local farm was nothing like that. The chickens roam freely.

Now, I order my raw milk in advance to be sure to get a bottle. It is pure white nectar. And the eggs are unlike any I ever bought in the supermarket.

The raw milk that I buy is legal. The state of New York allows consumers to buy directly from the dairy farmer. They regularly inspect his facilities.

If you live in a state where it is legal to buy from the dairy farmer, I recommend it. It turns out that those biotics are actually good for us.

Some people actually take a pill called pro-biotics. Who needs to take pro-biotics when you can drink raw milk?

Raw milk is better than chocolate.