Since I posted photographs of the mass graves and the torture camp in Cambodia, I feel compelled to tell you that these grim stories are not a picture of Cambodia today.

Cambodia is a physically beautiful country, with many ancient ruins, and more sights than any tourist could cover in many days of travel. The people are warm and gracious.

Our river cruise ended in Vietnam, and we transferred by bus to Pnomh Penh. It is a bustling, energetic city. We then traveled by bus to Siem Reap, a city of one million, and the tour company put us in one of the most beautiful hotels I have ever seen. We have been eating delicious Cambodian food, and we spent our days visiting ancient ruins. First, the world-famous Angkor Wat, which consists of many temples, which were repeatedly sacked by Thai invaders. The next day we visited more Wats that were ruins. We could only imagine how beautiful they were. Again, they had been stripped bare and destroyed by Thai invaders in the 12th century.

The temperature every day was about 90 degrees, and we were happy to return to our air conditioned hotel and pool to cool off.

What I will take away from this once-in-a-lifetime trip is a deep respect for the Cambodian people. It is a fascinating country, and I hope that one day you have the opportunity to visit it.

Both Vietnamese and Cambodian people kept reminding us that they are very much aware of their ancient pasts. But they look ahead to a bright future. Life is improving for most people. Whatever the government may be, the economy is thriving and growing numbers of people are joining the middle class.

I loved our guides in Vietnam and Cambodia, each proud of his country. The Cambodian guide told us he was born into a desperately poor family of subsistence farmers. To go to school, he had to cross the Mekong River. He made many sacrifices, but he never stopped learning. He taught for a few years but the salary was so low that he could not live. He tried different trades, then became a tour guide. He mastered English. He loves his work. He has a wonderful sense of humor. He said to us, “if your children complain, tell them how hard they would have to work if they lived in Cambodia.” He said, “There is only one way to lift yourself out of poverty, and that is education.” Everyone in the bus applauded.