I make no pretense at being an expert on Southeast Asia, specifically Vietnam and Cambodia, where I am now concluding a two-week trip. But I love to learn, and I enjoy sharing what I have learned, at risk of being corrected by people far more knowledgeable than I.
I loved Cambodia. I loved the warmth and gentleness of everyone I met. I quickly fell into the habit of greeting everyone with my hands clasped in front of me, almost in prayer. The heat and humidity were intense, with the temperature in the high 80s every day, possibly the 90s. The ancient ruins were impressive. I would urge everyone to visit Cambodia at least once in your life. I have posted my pictures of Cambodia on Twitter. One series tells the story of a family “noodle factory,” where the factory consisted of homemade implements, operated by the matriarch, the children, and grandchildren. As the family pounded and ground and boiled the rice into noodles, the littlest ones sold souvenirs. I bought a handmade flute for $1, and Mary bought a silk scarf for $5.
Today we did a whirlwind tour of Hanoi. We drove through the city, which to my surprise, contains beautiful parks, lakes, fountains, and trees. The climate was ten degrees cooler than Cambodia and very agreeable. First we stopped at the Temple of Literacy, a beautiful park in central Hanoi, where there was a school ceremony in progress (it seems to be a daily or near daily occurrence). Several hundred young children in uniforms were gathered at a shrine to Confucius, where a few were singled out for their excellent academic performance. The honorees came to the front of the audience, where a teacher tied a red kerchief around their necks. To the side of the open-air seating area were huge stone tablets, engraved with the names of the nation’s students who had achieved the highest test scores in past years. I looked on the event as a giant test prep rally. Who wouldn’t want to be recognized for such public honor?
Then we went to the Hanoi Hilton to see the rooms where captured American pilots were imprisoned. The guide warned us that the exhibit was one-sided. We saw pictures of some of the pilots who had been imprisoned, including a young John McCain. So handsome. The captions emphasized the humane treatment of the prisoners, making their captivity sound almost like a summer camp, with letters and gifts from home, basketball games, wholesome food, and other amenities. And of course we were reminded of the terrible deeds of the American invaders and the heroics of the Vietnamese defenders.
Then we switched to electric carts, about the size of golf carts, which maneuvered through the narrow streets of the Old City. This district is a teeming marketplace of every kind of marketable goods, cafes, coffee shops, flower markets, carpet shops, fruit vendors, jewelry stores, furniture stores, clothing stores, toy stores—and I have barely scratched the surface. The streets and sidewalks were crowded with pedestrians, vendors, bicycles, and especially motorbikes. Seldom was there a traffic light. Traffic and people weaved in and around and through each other. Somehow, miraculously, there were no collisions.
Whenever our group crossed a street, the tour guides told us to be “sticky rice,” moving in a solid clump, never pausing for oncoming traffic, which always flowed around us. I developed this axiom: “He who hesitates never crosses the street.”
We switched back to tour buses and headed to a restaurant for wonderful Vietnamese food.
In the afternoon, we visited the beautiful grounds of Ho Chi Minh’s Residence, where he lies in state. The trees and grounds were gorgeous, and it was fun to see the elegant autobiles that the Soviet Union had given him.
Our tour guide told us that the economy of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam is a free market and capitalist. At the same time, we saw many signs with the hammer and sickle, the symbol of Communism. Aside from the symbols, it was difficult to see what made Vietnam a Communist State. There are many luxury apartments buildings for rich Vietnamese and expatriates. There are stores representing the luxury brands of the West, like Louis Vuitton, Brooks Brothers, Estee Lauter, Rolls Royce, Porsche, and Mercedes Benz. There is MacDonald’s and Kentucky Fried Chicken. Many new office buildings are under construction, as are huge residential complexes for the super-rich. Ho Chi Minh must be spinning in his elaborate mausoleum. The only thing “Communist”about Vietnam is the occasional sign of a hammer and sickle. It is a capitalist country with huge wealth and income inequality.
In talking to our Vietnamese guides, I learned that there are no labor unions, no Social Security, no pensions. Medical care is not free. Even public schools costs money. The public elementary schools cost $60 a month, the lower secondary schools cost somewhat less because they don’t provide lunch. In the public s hoops, classes may be as large as 50, while the private schools have classes of only 25, but they cost about $1,000 a month. Every parent saves to pay for education because they know it is the path to a better life. Every young man, beginning in high school, spends 7-10 days of compulsory military service.
The Vietnamese are a practical people. They hold no ill feelings towards Americans. They want tourism and economic development and hotels are everywhere, especially new luxury hotels, financed largely by other Asians, from Japan, South Korea, Singapore.
We then went to a performance of the celebrated Vietnamese water puppets, a show that I cannot describe. It was delightful and performed in water with puppets and unseen puppeteers, accompanied by traditional Vietnamese music.
We had dinner at a traditional Vietnamese restaurant, where we were entertained by an extraordinary troupe of musicians who played instruments unknown to westerners. One is a one-string instrument, plucked with one hand and modulated with the other. Another was an elaborate set of bamboo reeds, tied together and played with great skill to produce beautiful music using percussion tools.
As I put this altogether, I first express my admiration for the people of both countries, who are proud of their history, heritage, and culture.
However, I wondered whether our countries are converging. Vietnam and Cambodia have embraced free market economics. They are unabashedly capitalistic. The Republicans in the U.S. want to get rid of social security, pensions, and government-guaranteed health care. It is a curious irony of history that they are copying us, and we want to copy them.
Consider visiting these countries, if you can find the time and can afford it. The best time to go is Christmas or Easter. Between May and September, I heard, the heat is intolerable. It is a long journey but I promise you will learn a lot and enjoy it. We took a cruise organized by Uniworld, which was e extremely well planned. I recommend it..

If our country privatizes its schools, I wonder if the end result will lead to parents’ paying tuition each month. The rich will get the Mercedes school, and the poor will get a Fiat that won’t start. That would seem to be a logical conclusion of individualism and libertarianism. If you use it, you pay for it. They want to quash the notion of the common good.
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Thanks for sharing all your amazing experiences in Vietnam and Cambodia while simultaneously maintaining your prolific blog. It sounds like these two countries have the worst of capitalism and communism. Of course capitalism is an economic system that can function in fascistic regimes like those of Pinochet or Franco or in communistic authoritarian police states like China. Capitalism does not equal freedom, democracy or a true free democratic republic.
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Thank you Joe for your accurate expression.
Yes, I agree with you that these two countries have the worst of capitalism and communism.
Wherever people live in fear for repercussion from their true feeling and voice, the public policy should be considered as extremist and corrupted. Back2basic
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“Between May and September, I heard, the heat is intolerable.”
Intolerable might be an understatement.
I remember one day in 1966 during the summer where we were building raised floors (getting ready for the rainy season when the average rainfall is 150 inches or more) and a 2×4 frame to hold the canvas for our tents and in the shade a thermometer said it was 134 degrees F — I repeat, that was in the shade.
We also dug a deep pit for our underground communications bunker that summer and had to drink 5 gallons of water every six hours and sweated that water out just as fast as we drank it. We also had to take salt tablets and the salt was coming out of our pores too.
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Your post is a timely and painful addition to Diane’s.
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Wonderful writing. It’s too bad that public education and the nation at large are in so dire need of your attention right now. If you had more time it’d be great to read about all sorts of things you could turn your attention to. Reading this piece was a nice way to finish what was a very hectic end of semester today.
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I agree. Diane is so talented. Reading this I felt like I was with her group on this tour. I needed this escape. Keen observations. Where will we end up if the privitizers have their way? Like the Vietnamese schools with monthly fees? Sadly while in the car today I listened to 5-10 minutes of Jeb Bush promoting Education Savings Accounts at an AEI conference. You know this group all too well, Diane. They think they are changing the world for the better. We know they are not.
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Jeb is on the money train and it works so very well for him. He assumes it works for everyone. He is wrong. The money train has a very limited number of seats.
I am in Shanghai and the city is modern, high rise, packed with the very rich. I kept thinking of Marc Tucker book, “Surpassing Shanghai” and thought I don’t want to be in that race. It is all about getting ahead by stepping on other people. Nothing about a humane society where people take care of those in need. I saw both extremes on this trip. The villagers seemed happiest. No one went hungry. Their neighbors watched out for them
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I love your glimpses of your trip. you asked, at the end, ” I wondered whether our countries are converging.”
I read something today, that I think provides a look at the reason for this apparent ‘convergence. Open Societies Under Siege
It offers a look at what theoretical nuclear physicist at Princeton to join McKinsey saw as a ” a pivotal change,” as “companies were displacing nations as the units of international competition.” He is describing the rise of the ‘corpocracies’ and globalism.
He continues: International corporations have a different lens. They optimize globally, rather than nationally. Their aim is to maximize profits across the world — allocating cash where it is most beneficial, finding labor where it is cheapest — not to pursue some national interest.
The shift was fast-forwarded by advances in communications that rendered distance irrelevant, and by the willingness in most emerging markets to open borders to foreign investment and new technologies.
Hundreds of millions of people in these developing countries were lifted from poverty into the middle class. Conversely, in Western societies, a hollowing out of the middle class began as manufacturing migrated, technological advances eliminated jobs and wages stagnated.
Looking back, it’s now easy enough to see that the high point of democracy — the victory of open systems over the Soviet imperium that brought down the Berlin Wall in 1989 and set free more than 100 million Central Europeans — was quickly followed by the unleashing of economic forces that would undermine democracies. Far from ending history, liberalism triumphant engendered a reaction….
“As inequality grew nationally (while narrowing globally), and impunity for financial disaster accompanied it, anger mounted. Frustration translated into an increasingly xenophobic search for scapegoats.”
Three decades on, nationalism, nativism and illiberalism are ascendant, from Donald Trump’s United States, to Jaroslaw Kaczynski’s Poland, to Daw Aung San Suu Kyi’s Myanmar. It’s an astonishing turnabout, but it has its logic.”
You should read the whole article, because what you are seeing is the effect of the corporatism. if there is a government there, maybe it is responsible for regulating traffic and collecting refuse, but the people are on their own… like we will be here, very soon.
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